Malawi is a small landlocked country in Africa, south of the Equator between latitude 9 degrees 45′ and 17 degrees 16′ South and between longitudes 33 degrees 35′ east. It is 900 kilometres long, varying in width from 80 kilometres to 160 kilometres and covering an area of 118, 484 square kilometres. The country is bordered to the North and North-East by the Republic of Tanzania and to the East, South and South-West by the Republic of Mozambique. The Republic of Zambia forms the Western border.
Malawi has excellent travel opportunities, not only in-, but also outside the beautiful and diverse country. There are options for all budgets. A good starting point is reading a proper travel guide; Bradt or Lonely Planet provide interesting, abundant and practical information on Malawi and surrounding countries. A reliable car, preferably with high clearance, can also be helpful, and if you prefer public transport, there are buses and minibuses. Depending on your sense of adventure or need of comfort, camping gear is useful; practically all camping items are for sale in Lilongwe, unless you are only happy with the very best. Lilongwe also has travel agencies, of which Kiboko (01751226), Land and Lake (01757120), Wilderness (01771393) and Ulendo (01754947) are the most commonly used. For flights abroad some internet research might save you money (expedia.com). It should be noted, however, that at times there are fuel shortages in the country which can seriously hamper travel around the city let alone exploring the region.
In Malawi itself the main attraction is the Lake, easily reachable from Lilongwe, in not more than 2 hours; Nkhata, Senga Bay, Cape Maclear and Monkey Bay are popular destinations. Swimming, kayaking, fishing, diving, scuba diving are popular activities. Mountains and hills are for example in Mulanje, Zomba and the Viphya Plateau. Activities: hiking, mountain biking, climbing, horse riding. Game parks you find in Liwonde, Kasungu and Vwasa Marsh.
Crossing the borders you may end up in Tanzania (Kilimanjaro, Serengeti, Zanzibar!), Mozambique (Quirimbas and Bazaruto Archipelagos, Maputo, Ilha de Mozambique!), Zambia (South Luangwa game park, Zambezi, Vic Falls!); once you are in those countries why don’t you just cross a few more borders? Visas –in a valid passport- are available at the borders; apart from that you need some hard (= $,€,£ or RSA Rand) currencies, a bank card or two, a DVD player if you have children in your car, possibly travel insurance and a flexible attitude; additional vaccinations are hardly required and in practically all countries you can speak English.
But of course staying in your house, sitting in your garden and listening to the birds is also an interesting option.
RELIEF AND CLIMATE
The country is dominated by Lake Malawi which runs southwards parallel to the main strip of land. This magnificent body of water is 568 kilometres long and 16 kilometres wide, accounting for 20 per cent of Malawi’s total surface area. Malawi has a varied topography of mountains and rivers, which have a direct effect on the climate with minimum temperatures averaging from 14.4 – 19.4 degrees Celsius to 25 – 32 degrees Celsius along the lakeshore and Shire River valley areas. October and November are hot and often humid as the weather builds up to the rainy season.
SEASONS
Malawi has two main seasons, the dry and the wet. The wet season extends from November to April. Rainfall amounts are variable; within the range of 725 – 2500 mm. From May to August, it is cool and dry. July is mid-winter month. In September it is hot and dry with October and November as the hottest months with rains expected almost throughout the country.
VEGETATION
The predominant vegetation of Malawi is the savannah woodland. Ever-green forests are found where ground water is plentiful as in river valleys and on mountains. Grasslands are found on high plateaus and river-basins.
BUSINESS HOURS
Civil Service Monday-Friday 0730h to 1200h and 1300h to 1700h. Private Sector Monday-Friday 0730h to 1200h and 1300h to 1700h Banks Monday-Friday 0800h to 1500h and Saturdays 0900h to 1100h.
SHOPPING HOURS
Monday-Friday: 0800h to 1200h/1230h and 1300h/1330h to 1630h/1800h. Some shops, particularly the larger supermarkets, remain open at lunch time and through to 1800h/ 2000h. Saturday: 0800h to 1700h/ 1800h
WHAT / WHERE TO BUY
For a relatively small country, Malawi produces a remarkable variety of colorful traditional and modern arts and crafts. Items are invariably hand worked to a high standard and there is none of the mass production of curios aimed specifically at the tourist market which occurs in some countries. Souvenirs made from clay, soap stones, beads, raffia, cloth, grass and reed can be purchased for quite modest prices from either shops in the city, pavement, curio stalls and from some hotel lobbies. Woods used for carving include African mahogany, ebony, palm and walnut.
Raffia and grass are used to make not only mats but very cleverly made toys such as trucks, granaries and helicopters as well. Chirundu, the local wrap-around dresses make for colorful presents just as a dose of recorded Malawian music obtained from registered music shops will do. A stroll down the Victoria Avenue from Mount Soche Hotel in Blantyre brings you to pavement curio and painting sales that have become a permanent feature of this street. Enjoy the bargaining.
DRESS
There are no restrictions on dressing in Malawi although it is usually formal in the city hotel where a lounge suit for men and a smarter dress for women may be required for certain occasions. The school has a modest dress code. Given the warm climate, light clothing should be packed, although in July/August the evenings can get quite chilly and so it is advisable to also pack some slightly warmer clothing.
BANKING SERVICES
There is a range of banks available in Lilongwe. BMIS tends to recommend Standard Bank simply because it holds accounts with them and therefore salary transfers are easier and quicker. Banks provide cheque books, although many retail outlets require pre-authorisation in order to accept cheques. Very few shops accept payment by debit or credit card.
Expatriate staff are entitled to remit up to 2/3 of their salary to a foreign currency. However, this can often be problematic, particularly during the first few months in Malawi. Expatriate workers will require all their TEP (Temporary Employment Permit) documentation to have been completed before the banks will remit money overseas and this process may take several weeks or months to be finalised.
There are significant problems within Malawi with foreign currency and remittances. Some staff have been lucky and have not had problems, whilst others have found the process quite frustrating. New staff should anticipate potential hiccups.
CULTURE
Malawi prides itself on a mosaic of unique cultural practices and norms. The main traditional dances and rituals as well as arts and crafts found among the people act as an identifying factor for the many but united ethnic groups of the country. The dances of Malawi, for instance, have deeper meanings than appears on the surface and, accordingly, efforts have been made to keep these intact as part of Malawi’s cultural heritage and for posterity. As a way of achieving the goal of retaining the country’s traditional values, the Museum of Malawi conducts a series of cultural activities in schools and public places so that those who have no contact with village life can benefit from facilities offered by the organisation.
Newcomers to Africa may take a little time to adjust to the pace of life and the different values. Whilst in the school we strive to be efficient, there are inevitably times when there may be different cultural values and these should be anticipated where possible. In the broader context of living and working in Malawi, newcomers need to be mentally prepared for some situations that may prove challenging. As a developing country, there are frequent power shortages leading to blackouts, fuel shortages etc., and it is unlikely that these will change irrespective of how many times an individual may complain.
PHOTOGRAPHY
This is allowed in all areas except military installations, uniformed security personnel and all places of a security nature.
TV, RADIO AND PRESS
Malawi has a national radio station providing two channels with the main studios located in Blantyre as well as five other private stations transmitting from Lilongwe, Blantyre and Mangochi. The two channels on the national radio stations are on FM, MW and SW and broadcast in English and the six major local languages — Chichewa, Tumbuka, Lomwe, Sena, Yao and Tonga. These channels are also available online. A national television station opened in mid 1999 but international satellite television provided by Multichoice Malawi is also available throughout the country.
There is also a proliferation of the print and electronic media with more than 16 newspapers in circulation at the last count although only four can claim mass circulation status. There are two dailies, ‘The Nation’ and ‘Daily Times’ and their sister weekend papers ‘Weekend Nation’ and ‘Malawi News’. All are tabloids covering both local and international news. A government paper ‘The Weekly News’ is published Tuesdays and Fridays. Most international news magazines and regional newspapers are current but overseas publications are sometimes a week late. These are available from the two main bookstalls Times and Central Bookshops, who also stock a variety of essential and leisure reading materials as well as toys.
RELIGION
Malawi has a variety of religious sects and denominations practising their faith in total freedom and tolerance. It is estimated that about half of the country’s population is Christian while Islam has more than 12 per cent of Malawians as its adherents. Other faiths claim about 38 per cent membership. Religious freedom has, in turn, made it possible for the faithful to cooperate and participate fully in nation building. As a result of the conducive atmosphere under which they operate, many religious organisations have indeed made numerous contributions towards Malawi’s development in such fields as education and health.
CURRENCY
The local currency in Malawi is the Kwacha and Tambala. 100 Tambala equals One Kwacha (MK1.00). The Kwacha exchange rate continuously floats against all foreign currencies. Between November 2014 and February 2015, it has been depreciating from around Mk 562 to MK 570 against one American Dollar. There is no limit to the amount of cash visitors may bring into the country and the same applies to the amount that can be taken out of the country as long as it’s legally obtained. The latter was previously limited to USD 5,000 per outward journey.
It should be pointed out that with a negatively floating Kwacha, prices in the shops can be highly variable and open to frequent inflation.
POPULATION
Malawi has a population of close to 16.7 million and the population of main towns after the 2008 national census is: Blantyre 661,256; Lilongwe 674,448; Mzuzu 133,968, Zomba 88,314. At regional level, the South makes up 48.3% of the population, the Centre: 39.5%, and the North: 12.2%. English and Chichewa are the official languages while all the other major languages such as Tumbuka, Yao, Lomwe, Sena and Tonga are used on the radio, in the media and in schools at local level.
IMMIGRATION
All visitors to Malawi must have passports and valid visas and — for those wishing to stay longer or wish to obtain employment, get an education or simply run bonafide businesses — it is a strict requirement that they possess requisite permits. Visas are not required for all visitors from the Southern African Development Community. Immigration formalities are kept to the minimum for visitors staying for periods not longer than three months.
As a new member of staff, the school will be applying for a Temporary Employment Permit (TEP) which in most cases will be ready for your arrival. The TEP is a requirement to stay in the country and also to be able to remit foreign exchange back home.
HOUSING
Expatriate teaching staff appointed from overseas are provided with suitable furnished accommodation. Teacher’s accommodation usually consists of a two or three bedroom apartment or villa. Lilongwe is quite spread out and while every effort is made to source accommodation close to the school, this cannot be guaranteed. All accommodation is furnished with basic amenities. All new staff will be given a starter kit of essentials (cups, saucepans etc.) for their home until their luggage arrives or until they purchase their own items. New teachers will also be given an advance on their salary, payable over the first three months, to enable them to purchase essential household goods.
It must be pointed out that Malawi is a developing country and as such faces numerous issues which includes frequent power cuts and water shortages. Whilst these may be seen as an opportunity to have a braii (BBQ) and to conserve water, these inconveniences can also lead to frustration. It is not uncommon for a party to be relocated at the last minute because a certain area has no power!
Houses are rarely fitted with air-conditioning units, although some come with ceiling fans. These will be essential in the hot months of October and November. Floor and wall fans can be purchased locally, but like everything, they are not necessarily cheap.
HEALTH CARE
The teaching staff are all covered by a comprehensive international medical insurance package (we are currently using AETNA). There are several clinics and hospitals, but it is important to realise that the level of care and the facilities will not match western standards. Basic medical treatment can be found in Lilongwe, but for major illnesses or serious conditions, it is unlikely that the local facilities can meet these needs and the patient may need to seek attention in South Africa or other centres.
The International Medical insurance does not usually cover dentist fees unless there is a medical emergency and so we usually advise people to at least have a check-up before coming to Malawi as some people are a little anxious about visiting the dentist at the best of times!
It should be noted that although the AETNA cover is good, and on a par with other international schools, AETNA itself is not accepted in Malawi as a direct payment. Therefore medical treatment must be paid for by the individual and then claims may be forwarded to AETNA for reimbursement, which of course can be a protracted process. Teachers are also provided with an additional local medical insurance, MASM, which is widely accepted in Malawi. This covers dental treatment as opposed to AETNA.
LIVING COSTS
Daily expenses in Malawi can be surprisingly expensive. Whilst there are some shopping basket items that are refreshingly good value for money, equally there are many that could be seen as on a par with European prices.
There are several large supermarkets in the city which offer a wide variety of local and imported produce. There is also a market where locally grown produce may be purchased (and of course perhaps a little bargaining!)
There is a range of restaurants in Lilongwe offering western, Indian, Chinese and Korean dishes. Prices of course vary. Typically a dish will be in the range of K3500 – K8000. A pizza will be around K3500 – K6000.
SPORTS AND ENTERTAINMENT
There are several sports clubs in Lilongwe. Very close to the school is the Golf club which also offers a pool, tennis, squash courts and snooker. Adjacent to the Golf Club is the Cricket Club which has an active social programme.
Socially, many teachers get together at weekends either at people’s homes or at one of the bars or restaurants. Some of the clubs (above) occasionally arrange events, as does the school’s PTA, but those people looking for high-entertainment found in most capital cities will be disappointed. Generally the lifestyle is what you make it.
There is a cable TV service (DSTV) which offers a wide range of international programmes including sports and movie channels. Subscription packages vary in price, and a good selection of news, sports and entertainment channels will cost around K6270 minimum (US$ 11) and K 43,890 maximum (US$ 77) per month.